UZBEK IN KYRGYZSTAN

Osh & Arslanbob

By Kim Lau

OSH

At the western end of Kyrgyzstan borders Uzbekistan, Osh is second largest city in Kyrgyzstan. Osh was known as early as the 8th century as a center for silk production along the Silk Road. The famous trading route crossed Alay Mountains to reach Kashgar to the east. In modern times, Osh has become also the starting point of the Pamir Highway crossing the Pamir Mountains to end in Khorog, Tajikistan. Osh and other towns in the Fergana Valley have traditionally consisted of a significant number of ethnic Uzbeks. The Soviets engineered current borders, which results in the segregation the Fergana valley between Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan. Ethnic Kyrgyz were encouraged to settle in the fertile Fergana Valley, resulting in an even split of Kyrgyz versus Uzbek population. This has resulted in much ethnic tensions; the riot in 1990 and 2010 resulted in murder, rape, arson and massacre between the 2 tribes. Kyrgyz are more Mongol looking, while Uzbeks are more Turkic looking. The Uzbek skull-cab are ubiquitous here, and so are the Kyrgyz kalpak hat.

AT THE BAZAAR : Uzbek granny runs a small spice store in Osh Bazaar, proudly puts up her show of Soviet badges. Uzbek boots trader.

AT THE FOOD SECTION : Uzbek ladies heartily treated me to some of the internal organ “delicacy“. Bread from the Fergana valley is renown, you never know until you try it.

ON THE STREETS : I was attracted to this Uzbek man with big glasses. He sells ornaments at a roadside stall. He gladly let me photograph but had initially removed his glasses and will never looked into my lens.

AT THE BUTCHER : Along a crowded stretch of the bazaar, I encountered Jimmy the Butcher (bottom right) and friends. They sell the same things with competition, but they are also the best of friends.

AT THE CHAYKHANA : Osh proximity to China sees the evolution of the Chinese dumpling - Manty. Store helpers gather with curiousity to have a peek of my electronic gadget.

ARSLANBOB

WORLD’S LARGEST WALNUT GROVE are in Kyrgyzstan, where trees occur in extensive, nearly pure walnut forests at 1,000–2,000 m altitude — notably at Arslanbob in Jalal-Abad Province. Arriving in the town of Arslanbop 1-month before the main harvesting season, I was hoping to see scenes of Walnut harvesting. There were a few families who had just started harvesting in the forest, and I was surprised to see heavy barricades on the different factions of the forest being to different families. The harvesting process was surprising simple; shaking the walnut tree and picking up dropped ones, collect fresh walnut, peel off the flesh and dry the walnuts. The most eventful of the journey to Arslanbob was a visit to the Uri Islamov Scholl Number 34 - middle school. Students and teachers welcomed me with great hospitality, and invited me to sit in to a class for which I gave a photography presentation!