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TURKMENISTAN

the unique homeland of the turkoman

By Kim Lau

Originally, the etymology of the Turkmen derives from Turk plus the Sogdian affix of similarity -men, and means “resembling a Türk“ or “co-Türk“, so all turks that were not in the classic Turk groups like Uyghur, Kyrgyz are all Turkmen. Turkmen now refer only to the Turkmen of Turkmenistan, Iran and Afghanistan, who speaks the Turkmen language. Turkmen are also affected by migration, whereby Turkmen took wife from Persia during the period of slave trade. Pure-blood Turkmen are groups who do not accept inter-marriage, like the Nokur in Kopet-Dag mountain range.

Turkmen are semi-nomadic people, so Mongol expansion was minimally invasive for the the Turkmen, with the exception of razing Urgench (now called Konye-Urgench meaning Old-Urgench), in what is considered to be one of the bloodiest massacres in human history. Despite the devastating effects of the invasion, the city was revived and it regained its previous status. It was Timur who put the final end to Urgench.

Turkmenistan today is in quite a different situation, governed by cult dictatorship and currently in its second iteration with Gurbanguly succeeded Niyazov. Turkmenistan can be termed “The North Korea of Central Asia”, where no independent visitors are allowed, so most travellers go with a 5-day transit visa, dashing into Azerbaijan or Iran from Uzbekistan. That said, Turkmenistan capital city Ashgabat is one of the most organized in Central Asia. Out of Ashgabat, conditions visibly deteriorate.

TURKMENISTAN

DARVAZA GAS CRATER

Corssing the Uzbek/Turkmen border of Holijie/Konye-Urgench, the road through the Karakum desert connects to Ashgabat, and the Darvaza Gas Crater is on the way. The first sight of the Darvaza gas crater was shocking. Glowing red in the dimming light, it burns furiously, much like a gateway to hell! Natural gas runs very near the surface in Turkmenistan, and these gas craters were results of Soviets’ explorations. This one has been lighted to burn, while the other 2 in the region remains dormant.

TURKMENISTAN

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TURKMENISTAN

ASHGABAT

The city of Ashgabat was sculpted by the first president of Turkmenistan – Niyazov. White marble buildings and gold statues of Niyazov overwhelm Ashgabat. Niyazov’s status is equivalent to Mao of China, Kim Jong Il of North Korea, as he called himself Turkmenbashi, meaning the leader of Turkmen. He has also penned his version of Turkmen history and culture, called the Ruhnama (Book of Soul). Ruhnama is compulsory reading from college entrance exams to driving test. I was put up at the suburb of Berzengi where hotels congregated, and was told that cigarettes and water need be purchased in town, as there aren’t small shops in the vicinity! Ashgabat has massive water fountains and monuments. For a country with 70% (and growing) desert and largely dependent on the Karakum Canal (world’s longest irrigation canal diverted from by the Amu Darya river), the use of water in Ashgabat is questionable. Also interesting is Islam in Turkmenistan. Niyazov built his mausoleum and the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque in Gyjak near Ashgabat. This mosque is the biggest in Central-Asia, and the inscriptions over the main arches states “Ruhnama is a holy book; the Koran is Allah’s book”, seriously flouting Islam’s practice. Despite all these, Ashgabat is clean and orderly, with good and cheap public transport. Most importantly, the people in Turkmenistan seemed happy and contented

ASHGABAT PRESIDENTIAL PALACE : Oguzkhan Palace is the official residence and principal workplace of the President of Turkmenistan.

TURKMENISTAN

PLUNGER & TRIPOD

ARCH OF INDEPENDENCE (left) : A compound dedicated exhibit the independence of Turkmen. It houses exhibition areas, and surrounded by statues of Turkmen that has shaped the histories of Turkmen. The design of this monument was inspired by traditional Turkmen tents and the traditional headgear worn by Turkmen girls. It has been largely known as ‘The Plunger‘ by expats.

ARCH OF NEUTRALITY (right) : Built in1998 to commemorate Turkmenistan‘s official position of a Political Neutral. It was right in the city centre and the Golden statue of Turkmenbashi which rotates to always face the sun. In 2010, Niyazov‘s successor Gurbanguly, demolished this one to built another “Monument of Neutrality“ in the suburb, but Niyazov golden statue remains atop, just not rotating.

TURKMENISTAN

TURKMENISTAN

golden tops

ALTYN ASYR SHOPPING (left) : Altyn Asyr Shopping Center is the world‘s biggest fountain!

EARTHQUAKE MEMORIAL (right) : Niyasov‘s brother and mother were killed in the 1948 earthquake, and the memorial with baby Turkmenbashi in gold was erected to commemorate them.

TURKMENISTAN

TURKMENISTAN

TURKMENBASHI RUHY MOSQUE

Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, which floated all Islam principles by inscribing quotes from Turkmenbashi‘s book, the Ruhnama.

TURKMENISTAN

TOLKUCHKA BAZAR

The existence of the huge and colourful Tolkuchka Bazaar in Ashgabat is of great contrast to the city. The market sprawled across the desert suburbs of Ashgabat and it is the largest open-air market in Central Asia. While it bears many similarities to other markets of Central-Asia, Tolkuchka is unique in its way: screaming camel being hauled into trucks, trading of doors, cauldrons and satellites captures much attention.

TURKMENISTAN

TURKMENISTAN

TURKMEN POTS AND CAULDRON, DOOR, AND GASOLINE TRADER.

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TURKMENISTAN

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NOKUR

Wedged into the mountains just a few kilometers from Iran, Nokhur has a distinctive culture and looks from the rest of Turkmenistan. The local folks are called Nokhurians, and some has looks that resemble the Sindhi of the Indus Valley (Karachi in Pakistan); my host Ga’yip is a good example. Nokhur used to be a by-word by Soviet Turkmen that means anything rural, and the Nokhurians remain isolated till today. They consider themselves descendents of Alexander the Great, and practices pre-Islamic superstition. Nokhurians takes pride in maintaining their ‘pure blood’, and they speak a dialect of the Turkmen language. The most fascinating sight is the village cemetery, where each grave is protected by the huge horns of the mountain goats, which locals consider as sacred. These scared horns are also placed in their homes to ward off evil spirits.

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NOKURIAN CEMETRY : They believe that the horns of sheep will protect the deceased.

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TURKMENISTAN

NOKUR MAN : Nokurian in typical Turkmen dessing and Telpek.

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TURKMENISTAN

PARAU BIBI

Parau Bibi is an important pilgrimage site since ancient times. Parau Bibi is a legendary women (Bibi means grandmotherly like) who was swallowed by the mountains to prevent being carried away by barbaric tribes. Turkmen women come forth to pray for fertility and well-being in general. The pilgrimage base caters to pilgrimage families, providing accommodation, cooking areas and a small souvenir bazaar. It is here that I encountered many Turkmen, dressed in their best. As a photographer, I became the most wanted men for the night!

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PARAU BIBI SHRINE : Pilgrimage Road to Parau Bibi Holy Shrine.

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WISHING ROCK : Wishing for fertility for married women and good husband for girls. When the rock turn minimally, their wish will come true.

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TURKMENISTAN

PARAU BIBI WOMEN : Pilgrim Ladies at Diiner. They came forth to pray for fertility and for their child‘s goodness. Young Turkmen ladies come forth to pray for lave and fertility.

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TURKMENISTAN

Yangykala: canyon from the sea

Turkmenbashi is located on the shores of the Caspian Sea. In the Soviet days the city was known as Krasnovodsk, but the president gave the city the honour of bearing the same name he uses to describe himself: “Father of Turkmens“. The city is laid-back, with a few nice beaches and cafes. Walking around town invites interactions from locals, and quite a few speak some English. From Turkmenbashi, five hours drive through some absolutely barren steepes brings me to the next contrast of Turkmenistan – Yangekala Canyon. Steep canyon walls seared with bands of pink, orange and yellow is especially impressive at sunset. Geologist believed that this canyon used to reside in an ocean, evidenced by abundance of sea shells and iron at the plateau.

DAWN AT TURKMENBASHI : Dawn at Turkmenbashi, overlooking the Caspian sea.

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SEAFOOD AT BAZAR : Seafood is plentiful at the port town of Turkmenbashi

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DESERT BUS STOP : On the road to Yagekala Canyon, desert bus stop (to nowhere).

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YANGEKALA CANYON : The glowing Yangekala canyon at sunset.

TURKMENISTAN

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Footnotes

Captured with OLYMPUS digital systems camera, E-systems from 2004, mirrorless PEN from 2009 and the OM-D from 2013

FootNotes

Captured with OLYMPUS digital systems camera, E-systems from 2004, mirrorless PEN from 2009 and the OM-D from 2013

© 2026 Kim Lau

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