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KYRGYZ

the highland dwellers

By Kim Lau

The Yenisei Kyrgyz was an ancient Turkic tribe who dwelled along the upper Yenisei river since 200BCE. The heart of their homeland was the forested Tannu-Ola mountain range in current day Tuva. They were described in Tang Dynasty texts as having “red hair and green eyes“, while those with dark hair and eyes were said to be descendants of a Chinese general Li Ling who defected to the Xiongnu during the Han Dynasty. Li Ling was the grandson of famous Han Dynasty General Li Guang, the ancestor of the Li family who founded the Tang Dynasty. Yenisei Kyrgyz were therefore regarded as an extended family of the Tang Dynasty, whom assisted the Yenisei Kyrgyz to revolt against the Uyghur Khaganate at Karabalghasun in 840AD. Uyghur were driven out of current day Mongolia, migrated to the Gansu and the Tarim Basin. With the rise to power, the center of the Kyrgyz Khaganate moved to Jeti-su in (seven rivers) in modern Kazakhstan, and brought about a spread south of the Kyrgyz people, to reach Tian Shan mountains and Xinjiang. Kyrgyz dominance wane with the rise of the Mongol Empire, and the Kyrgyz Khaganate became a vassal state. The word Kyrgyz could refer to a collection of 40 tribes, united by the epic hero Manas against the Khitan. Modern day Kyrgyz in and around Kyrgyzstan are referred to the Tianshan Kyrgyz, while the Khakas in the Russian Republic of Khakassia are descendants of the Yenisei Kyrgyz.

Modern day Kyrgyz seemed to dwell in the various highlands: Chinese Tianshan, Pamir and Kyrgyzstan. This series present the landscape and faces of the Tianshan Kyrgyz. The majority of Kyrgyz has more asiatic looks, while those in the Pamir has more European looks.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

Kyrgyz in china

KYRGYZ FAMILY AT KARAKULLI : This family runs a little yurt beside the road circumscribing Karakulli, tending to tourist business.

KARAKILLU SUBASH VILLAGE SCHOOL : Kyrgyz school children at Subash Village, at the base of Musta Ghata (Pamiri Peaks known as Father of Clacier)

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

KARAKULLI LAKE : Karakulli means “Little Karakol“, is habitated by Chinese Kyrgyz. Featured here is Musta Ghata, “father of glacier“ at the eastern end of the Pamirs in Tajikistan. At the foot of sloping mountain before Musta Ghata is the Kyrgyz village of Subash.

KYRGYZ

CAMELS IN PARADISE : These camels at Karakulli has plenty of greens and water, very unlike those in the desert. They look extremely healty.

KYRGYZ

pamiri Kyrgyz

SAGHIN, BROTHER AND GRANDFATHER AT MURGHAB : Saghin (right) was our driver for the Pamirs, and it was an honour to meet his grandfather and brother in Murghab. Murghab in a very bleak place in my opnion.

KYRGYZ LADY PAMIRS : A beautiful Kyrgyz lady with green eyes.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

kyrgyzstan

Early morning departure with the classic LADA from the town of Karakol to the Mal Bazar (animal market) which only operates on Sundays.

KARAKOL MAL BAZAR : Hustle and Bustle at the foot of white-peaked range of the Tianshan mountain, 7.30 in the morning.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

Arriving early in the morning, the Kyrgyz sisters were first to be captured in great light for their great colours. Then a trader on horseback against the Tianshan backdrop.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

GOLDEN TEETH KYRGYZ SHEEP LADY : By the car, a Kyrgyz sheep trader with gold teeth and ornaments.

KYRGYZ

LADY IN GREEN : A friendly Kyrgyz in Green shirt and purple head dress.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

GRREN LADA KYRGYZSTAN : Kyrgyz kid in Green Lada.

KYRGYZ

SHEEP FOR KEBAB : Lada Loading - two in with 1 more to go.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

ETHNIC RUSSIANS AT THE BAZAR : Only the Russian consumes pork and they operate from a different area of the Sunday Market.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

Valleys around karakol

Karakol is the base for the many great treks in the nearby mountain and valley, and many travellers come to this region exclusively for trekking. Altyn Arashan and the Aksu Valley is located within the Central Tian Shan range and it make a round-trip from Karakol, and is one of the most popular route taken by travellers. Jeti-Oghuz (Seven Bulls) Canyon lies west and the village is 25km from Karakol, and is a tourism trademark for Lake Issyk-kol.

ALTYN ARASHAN : A Picturesque Valley in the heart of Asia.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

JETI OGHUZ : Jeti-Oghuz (Seven Bulls) Panorama - the iconic symbol of Issyk-Kol tourism.

KYRGYZ

ISSYK-KOL EAGLE HUNTER : Ishenbek & Eagle on a little hill just behind his backyard. Ishenbeck is a trained economist.

KYRGYZ MASHRUDKA : Inside a mashrudka, leaving for Song Kol

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ JAILOO AT SONGKOL

The term Jailoo refers to high altitude pastures which are rich for herd grazing in the summer. Song-Köl (Köl means lake in Kyrgyz) is one of the richest and loveliest Jailoo. The journey starts from the village of Kyzart, and after some steep climb on horseback, Song-Köl revealed itself. Descending into the valley of Tu-patash, Kyrgyz yurts and herds gradually came into sight - this is the climax of Central Kyrgyzstan! Kyrgyz Sheppard’s’ are semi-nomadic and Central Kyrgyzstan is a great place to meet them. They bring the herds to the Jailoos in the summer and return to their village homes in the winter. The valley of Tu-patash had 6 families at the time of visit and Rahat and his family hosted me. There was also a family of fishermen, who ice-fish in he winter. The shepherds‘ routine work include gathering of fuel (animal dungs), milking and making diary products, wool cutting. The Kyrgyz kymys (Horse Milk) were made fresh here in the Jailoo; they taste sour and is slightly alcoholic. The shepherds used sweet jam and kymys after a spicy snapps (cheap vodka).

KYRGYZ

SUNRISE @ SONGKOL : Sunrise reflections over Song-Kol.

KYRGYZ

FISHING IN SONGKOL : Fishing in serenity at the Jailoo at Songkol. While the majority are herders at Songkol, fisherman exist here to provide that alternative food supply for everybody.

KYRGYZ

GOLDEN LIGHT AT SONGKOL : A beautiful horse in Golden Light at Tu-Patash.

KYRGYZ

SHEEP SHEARING AT SONGKOL : Rahat shearing sheep, with shearing blade. He was helping Bedoro who happy posted for a photo with his baby.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

FISHERMEN : Another neighbouring shepherd and 2 fishermen to his right. All in a day‘s life : Snapps (cheap Vodka) and Kymys (in the pail).

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

YOUNG SHEPERD AT WORK : Rahat’s sons were helping to setup the saddle and tending to sheeps.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ CHILDREN : Little boy comes greeting when I was photographing the the golden hours. He‘s from the family beside the shores of Song-kol. Decended from Song-kol. Wondeful kids from the Village of Kizarm.

KYRGYZ

KYRGYZ

KYGYZ SHOP IN OSH : Kyrgyz seemed to operate in designated areas of the Osh Bazaar. A Kyrgyz man waved at me, and here’s a portrait of him in his shop.

KYRGYZ

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Home : LANDS FROM THE MONGOL EMPIRE

Previous Chapter : MONGOLIA

This Chapter : CHAGATAI

Next Chapter : ILKHANATE

Previous Story : UYGHUR

Next Story : TIMURID SILK ROAD CITIES

Footnotes

Captured with OLYMPUS digital systems camera, E-systems from 2004, mirrorless PEN from 2009 and the OM-D from 2013

FootNotes

Captured with OLYMPUS digital systems camera, E-systems from 2004, mirrorless PEN from 2009 and the OM-D from 2013

© 2026 Kim Lau

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