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KABUL

Babur's capital

By Kim Lau

Kabul is an ancient city with dramatic development in recent histories. While Chinggis Khan razed Kabul during his pursuit of Khwarezm Shar Mingburnu, it flourished under Timurid and was especially during Mughal rule. Babur is the great-great-great grandson of Timur and the founder of the Mughal empire. His empire began in Kabul in 1504 when he wrestled it from the Arghuns (descended from the Ilkhanate), he loved the city and he was buried there. The term Afghan began with the Durrani empire ruled by Pastuns. Early 20 century saw Kabul’s modernization, and Kabul university produced many knowledgeable Afghans. Kabul was also on the Hippie trail. Soviet intervention in Kabul triggered the Soviet War, and Afghanistan was spared while the rest of Central Asia were absorbed into the Soviet. Events that happened after were dramatic, civil war, Taliban control, American & Nato. Pakistan has effects on Afghanistan, and many believed Pakistan is the smarter of the two, as it received aids from the U.S.A and still harbouring the Taliban to trigger terror in Afghanistan. Afghanistan today is much fragmented by tribal groups: Pastun, Hazara, Tajik and Uzbek, and each has their leader. Due to discrimination, Hazara community congregates which is totally understandable.

Kabul today is a dusty capital, electricity is publicly available, but water was mostly welled and shared by a group of neighbours. Residential areas are sprawled widely and it is a labyrinth to navigate. I was hosted by locals and stayed within the residential area, visits to family house does reveal varying degree of simplicity/luxuries. Sanitation are often inadequate, draining from the main pathway of the residential quarters. City centre is dusty, and there are visible protecting walls that runs high into the hills – these walls were erected since ancient times. Of special interest in Ka Faroushi, Kabul’s bird market and its surrounding bazar. Its also by chance that I patronized a swimming complex in Kabul, it’s a men’s party of course.

KABUL

KABUL ROADS & STREETS

Shows the busy and dusty city centre. But the Pamir Cola is a respite for the heat.

KABUL

KABUL

Slightly quieter than the main road and signpost of clinics! Peshewar in Pakistan shares a very similar settings.

KABUL

KABUL

KABUL RESIDENTIALS

This is typical Kabul residential area, very centralized. Household has electricity, but no water nor sewerage systems. waste water drains from the main pathway.

KABUL

KABUL

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KABUL

KABUL

HITCHING A RIDE IN KABUL : Neighbourhood kids hitching a ride with a passing truck.

KABUL

KABUL city centre

WALLS IN KABUL : October in Kabul, and its still hot. Vibrant Wall ice-cream vendor at the centre of Kabul.

KABUL

KABUL MONEY CHANGERS : These money changers at Kabul main bazaar are friendly, but business is business… beware!

KABUL

KABUL

KABUL'S ANCIENT BIRD MARKET

In one of the oldest quarters of Kabul, an ancient bazaar that caters primarily to the sale of birds. While not seeeminly friendly, but they are hospital when approached.

KABUL

KABUL

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KABUL

KABUL

KABUL

KABUL

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KABUL

KABUL

AFGHAN BIRD CULTURE

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KABUL

KABUL

KABUL BAZAR

In the adjoining bazar of Ka Farushi, blacksmiths traditional and traditional, toiletries, clothing. It was here that a plain-cloth police stop and questioned me, that needed permission to photograph. The guys at the modern blacksmith stall came to the rescue, dismissing the police’s demand.

KABUL

KABUL

KABUL

KABUL

GARDENs OF BABUR

Known locally as Bagh-e-Babur, the gardens were built to order by Babur in traditional Persian style. Mughal emperors like Jehangir and Shah Jehan paid pilgrimage, built walls and Mughal style ordaments. The gardens is a great respite from the dusty and honking city, a good way to appreciate Kabul as Babur sees it. Babur’s tomb resides at the top of the gardens.

KABUL

KABUL

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Footnotes

Captured with OLYMPUS digital systems camera, E-systems from 2004, mirrorless PEN from 2009 and the OM-D from 2013

FootNotes

Captured with OLYMPUS digital systems camera, E-systems from 2004, mirrorless PEN from 2009 and the OM-D from 2013

© 2026 Kim Lau

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