GOBI

guarding southern Mongolia

By Kim Lau

The Gobi is a large desert that covers parts of northern and northwestern China and southern Mongolia. Several important cities of the Silk Road resides in the Gobi, and the Gobi is also notable in history as part of the great Mongol Empire. The Gobi is a natural border between China and Mongolia; Chinggis Khan crossed the Gobi to attack China, while they are also conquerors before him that did the same and vice versa for the Chinese. The Gobi is often imagined to be place of unbearable heat and lifeless sand dunes, similar to the inhospitable and uninhabitable Sahara desert. Whereas the reality is quite the reverse. The Great Mongolian Gobi has high mountains, springs, forests, sands, steppe lands and rich animal kingdom, and has been inhabited since ancient times. This series explores Dundgovi (middle Gobi) in the north, into Ömnögovi (south Gobi) and Dornogovi (east Gobi).

DUNDGOV : MIDDLE GOBI

ONGIN KHIID : Ongin Khiid was constructed in 1660 on a mountainous area along the Ogiin river in the western Saikhan-Ovoo district. The monastery compound has many temples and it used to house a thousand monks. Under Choibalsan, the monastery was completely ruined in 1939, and in 2004, a group of monks started minor reconstruction process.

C. Мядер : S. Myader was born in 1941 at Ongiin Khiid, 2 year after the Stalinist purge. Still, he was told of the many stories of Ongin Khiid. He is a charming man, and he currently works as a guide at Ongiin Khiid while his son manages the temple compound. He is very enthusiastic about playing the jaw harp, and he sang enthusiastically when I encountered him again at the ger camp. Jumping on the opportunity, I recorded him singing his favourite songs, in my ger!

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ÖMNÖGOV : SOUTH GOBI

BAYANZAG : Bayanzag means “rich in saxual (trees)“ and it is famous for the massive findings of fossils in Mongolia by American paleontologist Roy Chapman Andrews. In reality, there are no fossils to be seen here, and the “Red Flaming Cliffs“ were not wowing. It does serves as a breaking stop en-route to the Gurvan Saikhan national park.

KHONGORYN ELS : Mongolia’s singing sand dune, spanning 100 km in length and has a unique geographical formation where the mountain meets and dunes, and the dunes meet the streams and pastures – an extremely photogenic area of Mongolia. Khongoryn Els is part of the Gurvan Saikhan National Park. Gurvan Saikhan means “three beauties” and the beauties refer to the mountain range in the province: Baruun Saikhany Nuruu (the Western Beauty), Dund Saikhany Nuruu (the Middle Beauty) and Zuun Saikhany Nuruu (the Eastern Beauty). Sun is setting and the Camels need to be herded home. These camels are raised for many purposes, and one of the major uses here is for camel trekking for tourist. Mid June is just before the tourist season, and you barely see them on the dunes. To capture camels in action, with larger river stream, July and August will be the better months.

DUSK AT KHONGORYN ELS : Panoramic view of dusk at Khongoryn Els. This area is extremely scenic, in which the capture do not do justice.

Chimigan is the daughter of the herder’s family at Khorgoyrn Els. When she was asked to pose, she conscientiously tidied her hair. I lured her into this frame looking out from the kitchen’s window. Herds are the assets of the family, and she was apparently sent to tend to them by the grandmother.

DUNES & BACTRIAN CAMELS : The two-hump Bactrian camels are ubiquitous in Mongolia. These camels are healthy when their humps are sturdy and upright. The clould was thick and the setting sun from behind glows like a orange yoke, adding drama to the view of the magnificent sand dune ridge.

FIELDS OF GOLD AT OMNOGOV STEPPES : This steppe plain is about 50km from Dalanzagard, the provincial capital of Ömnögivi Aimag (South Gobi).

DORNOGOV : EASTERN GOBI

White-tail gazelle lives in remote Eastern Mongolia. They were heavily poached, and they are strictly protected. Shy and inconspicuous, they were barely spotted and always in great distance. Here‘s a view of mother and baby white-tail gazelle crossing the road. Ikh Nart nature reserve is one of the highlights of Dornogov (East Gobi) Aimag. Ikh Nart nature reserve is one of the highlights of Dornogov (East Gobi) Aimag. These fast and camouflaging lizard can be easily spotted at the Ikh Nart nature reserve

POWER OF NATURE AT ILKH NART : Ikh Nart nature reserve is one of the highlights of Dornogov (East Gobi) Aimag. While Ibex and Aragali sheep were spotted, they kept their good distance. Evening rain against setting sun created this full rain-bow that throws magic into the magnificent landscape. Following the evening rain, thunder storm brewed over the night. with consistant sightings of amazing display of lightning.