BAMYAN

city of screams

By Kim Lau

Bamyan is the centre of Hazarajat in Central Afghanistan, famous for her Buddhas carved into the cliff. The Bamyan valley was also part of the ancient Silk Road, and it marks the most westerly point of Buddhist expansion. Built in 507 AD (smaller) and 554 AD (larger) by the Kushan, and the caves supports up to 2000 monks for meditation. Like the caves in Dunhuang, Buddhist art were painted on walls, albeit less preserved. The region was only converted to Islam with the Ghorid Dynasty in the 11th century. Mughal emperor Aurangzeb, Persian Nader Shah, Afghan King Abdur Rahman Khan had their shares on destroying the Buddha on the pretext that Islam forbid Idolism. It was the Taliban who dynamited the Buddha in March 2001.

Chinggis Khan was pursuing Mingburnu, the last ruler of the Khwarezmian Empire, and his newly raised forces in Afghanistan. Bamyan was holding fine during Chinggis siege in 1221. The defense of the citadel was betrayed by the daughter of the king who decided to bethrol to the Mongols in rebellion of the king‘s decision to take a new wife. She was beheaded by the Mongols and the scream was shrilingly loud. Mutukan, son of Chagatai, was killed in the campaign and Chinggis Khan ordered Bamyan be completely destroyed. “City of Screams” reflect this historical account.

A common belief is that after the local Bamyan population was wiped out, Chinggis repopulated the area with some of his Mongol troops and their slave women, in order to guard the region while he continued his campaign. These settlers would become the ancestors of the Hazara people - with the word “Hazara” most likely derived from the Persian word “yek hezar” (“one thousand”), for the Mongol military unit of 1000 soldiers. This story introduces Bamyan and its Hazara population.

SHAR-E-ZOHAK : guarding the bamyan valley

Shar-e-Zohak (City of Zohak). Built by the Ghorids before Chinggis Khan arrived to conquer Bamyan

shar-e-ghogola : CITY OF SCREAMS

Shar-e-Ghogola translate as “City of screams“, built by the Ghorids in Bamyan. This city was resisted the Mongols well, but it was betrayed by the daughter of the king who decided to bethrol to the Mongols in rebellion of the king‘s decision to take a new wife. She was beheaded by the Mongols and the scream was shrilingly loud, hence the “City of Screams“.

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BAMYAN CITY BAZAAR : old vs new

The old city of Bamyan used to be at the foot of the cliff. After then population‘s conversion to Islam, Buddha figures was tolerated, but was gradually destroyed by the Mughals, Nader Shah and eventually the Taliban. Bamyan city bazaar is not directly at the foot of the cliff of the buddha, but it is within walking distance from its previous location with the buddha still overlooking it.

ABDUL ALI MAZARI

The late leader of the Hazara people in Afghanistan. He was murdered by the Taliban in 1995, and hundreds of thousands attended his funeral in Mazar-e-Sherif.

Hazara Men at work

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MONGOL HAZARA

Hazaragi man spotted at a local restaurant in Bamyan, with strong Mongol features.

HAZARA VS TAJIK

Zainullah on them left is a Hazara born and raised in Kabul. His father was from Bamyan. On the right is a Tajik in Bamyan. It becomes clear the contrast in looks betweeen Tajik and Hazara. Captured in Bamyan Buddhist grottoes.

TEENAGERS AT BAMYAN BAZAAR

Interesting combinations of decreasing asiatic looks from left to right. The first 2 are definitely Hazara.

SPORTS IN BAMYAM

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HAZARAGI MUSICIAN

Left is NASIR SAROSH with great Dombura playing technics. Right is SAYED MIRZA with great musicianship.

MOGHOL DUKHTAR

Moghol Dukhtar translate as Mongol Girl. This song describes a beautiful Mongol looking girl and her beauty, and is special to the Hazara people, that the other races of Afghan (Tajiks, Pastun, Uzbek etc) is not aware of. Recorded in Bamyan inside a typical rectangular room, with Rode Video Mic Pro stereo and Olympus LS-14, mastered with Logic X with a cheap pair of Awei in-ear monitors. Video with Olympus E-M1 handheld…tripod given to microphone.

Both musician presented their version of the Mongol Girl.

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MAN SADQA BY SAYED MIRZA

Man Sadqa translate as “My Devotion“ in Hazaragi language. It describes a man‘s devotion to a woman with linked eyebrows.

NORBAND NORBANDA BY nasir sorosh

There can be many beautiful girl, but the most beautiful of all will be your Norband. An Afghan song performed by Hazaragi musician Nasir Sarosh playing the Afghan Dombura.